I’m having a significant drawback with small checks (cracks) creating on the surfaces of crotch-mahogany veneers. The checks are small however quite a few and are throughout the grain on all surfaces of the small packing containers I’m veneering. I apply a multi- layered end as follows: a coat of an oil combination consisting of double-boiled linseed oil and pure turpentine, two coats of orange shellac, two coats of sanding sealer, wooden-paste filler, three or 4 thinned coats of sanding sealer and two coats of sprayed-on lacquer. When the lacquer is dry, I buff it with rubbing compound and end up with some paste wax. The checks don ‘t seem instantly after the end is utilized, however present up on a gradual foundation, some creating months and years after the packing containers are full.
-WT. Cosway, Halton Hills, Ont., Canada
Frank Pollaro replies: I used to have comparable issues with crotch-mahogany veneer. However, the methods that I’m at present utilizing have virtually eradicated this drawback for me.
First, I coat the veneer with an answer of two-components white glue, three-components water, one-and-a-half components glycerin and one-half denatured alcohol. You may use this resolution for another cussed veneers.
I liberally brush the combined components on each side of the veneer. I then press the coated veneers between cauls of medium- density fiberboard (MDF), utilizing sheets of plastic to stop the veneers from sticking to the cauls or to one another. I apply weight regularly, not with clamps, to present the veneer an opportunity to soak up the combination. After two days, the veneer needs to be flat and workable. It should be damp; nevertheless, this is not going to have an effect on slicing, gluing or urgent the veneer. I take advantage of white glue as a result of it has an extended working time than yellow glues.
Second, I’ve discovered that crotch veneers work higher when utilized over one other veneer. Although I don’t suppose grain route issues, it’s higher than gluing the veneers instantly onto flakeboard or MDF.
Third, and most essential, after the veneered piece is pressed, I sand flippantly to take away any floor glue after which apply a skinny coat of sizzling conceal glue with a paint brush. This sizing fills the pores and, I think, inhibits the motion of the veneer to scale back checking. When dry, I sand the floor and end. The conceal glue is not going to have an effect on ending.
I’m additionally involved with the ending methods you’re utilizing. I see no want to combine oil, shellac, lacquer and wax on a single undertaking. Three or 4 coats of Waterlox clear, a skinny wiping varnish accessible from most {hardware} shops, would certainly offer you all you might be getting from these different components with a lot much less effort and time. It can then be rubbed and waxed utilizing 0000 metal wool to present a lustrous satin end.
Frank Pollaro offers workshops on veneering and is a designer and builder of high quality furnishings in East Orange, NJ.
From problem #107–July/Aug 1994.
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